A very belated trip report, written as I’m avoiding homework and depressed about the fact that I haven’t climbed at all since Ouray except for twice at the gym. I’m once again making myself promises about starting to climb more, but I mean to keep them this time unlike all the previous times. Many of the people mentioned in here frequent rockclimbing.com and their username is often used in place of their real name.
After over two years of trying, redpointron (or just Ron), convinces me to come to the Ouray Ice Climbing Festival. I kept telling him no when I lived in Bloomington and climbed regularly with him, but now I’ve moved to Ithaca, so it’s a great idea. Actually, I just have a longer winter break (the Fest was during break) and don’t have to go to the AAS meeting the week before. (I don’t miss that one at all.)
I flew into Montrose on Wednesday afternoon. The flights out were relatively uneventful. Another climbing cohort was on the same flights out. (A Bloomington climber who Ron knew but I had never met somehow.) He picked me out from the airplane crowd and we passed the layover in Houston chatting. When we made it to Montrose the visibility was too poor to land – they told us we had enough fuel to circle for twenty minutes before we would have to redirect to Colorado Springs. Ten minutes later the clouds cleared up long enough to allow us to land – yea! Ron and Reese were there to meet us and take us back to Ouray. Another member of our group was supposed to be arriving, but her flight on United was cancelled/severely delayed out of Denver.
On the drive back to Ouray we made a stop at the Orvis Hot Springs – clothing optional natural hot springs. (In our group there really was no option – we were the naked house!) Then it was onwards to Ouary – a quick stop by the awesome house we were staying in to drop off gear and inward to town and the gear shop! Many good things lived in that shop. Most importantly, I bought ice climbing boots! I was borrowing crampons and axes from Ron, so I was already to start ice climbing. Unfortunately that would have to wait until the next day. We headed back the Montrose way to pick up March – she had finally managed to arrive from Denver. She bummed a ride with some guys heading out to go skiing, so we met them halfway between Montrose and Ouray. Unfortunately, United hadn’t brought her luggage with her. (Super kudos to Ron here for the recommendation to avoid United.) It was off to dinner at the Mexican restaurant in town, where I met reno and sharpie – buddies from festivals’ past that Ron met through rc.com. We went out drinking afterwards, and I had my first Yeger bomb. (Note: As with all proper climbing trips, much drinking occurred. We were always responsible and had a designated driver.)
It was up bright and early the next morning to go climbing! We stopped by San Juan Mountain Guides on the way to the ice so that Marcy could rent some gear since hers was still in Denver. We made it to the School Room bright and early and set up three ropes on the brilliantly named routes 5, 6, 7. (Or 6, 7, 8 – I don’t quite remember. All the routes in the School Room are numbered and it’s hard to remember which number goes with which.) Setting anchors was easy since there were chains at the top. This was also when I discovered that a 60m rope isn’t long enough – 70 meters is much, much nicer as it easily reaches across the creek at the bottom of the School Room (see the picture below).

Looking down the School Room
I did my first ice climb ever – it was wicked fun! Extremely tiring though – I only did two and a half climbs that day and I was beat by the end. I went up the first climb with leashes, but after that it was leashless all the way. It was so much nicer without leashes – being able to leave the tools in the ice and shake my hands out. I worried a bit about dropping the tools, but I could always lower back down and pick it up. Not that I ever dropped a tool. Being able to shake my hands out was extremely important as it helped return circulation and prevent the screaming barfies (where your hands hurt so badly you either have to scream or barf). My hands would be completely numb by the end of a climb. It wasn’t from cold, even though I didn’t have the best gloves, (I stayed surprisingly warm throughout) but because I would lose blood flow from having my hands above my head. It was best to stop often and shake your hands out – both to reduce the pain of returning circulation to small doses and to make sure you could continue to grip the tools. All in all, it was a good first day – I learned a lot and earned my beer for the night.

Me getting ready to ice climb
It was a lazy dinner around the house that night and an early morning to start climbing. It was the first day of the festival so we wanted to make sure we got some ropes up. I think the area we were climbing in was the Alcove – it was just between the School Room and Lead Only area. The climbs were much longer here – you lowered down on the rope and climbed out. I was nervous about this at first, but I was assured that there was a walk-out if necessary. I asked about a haul and was assured again that there was a walk-out. I warmed up on the top of some climb – nicely making sure that I didn’t lower down to the steep scary bit. I then climbed Vic The Pick. It was a very nice climb but long! Then it was lunch time and off to a clinic! The nice thing about the festival starting was that there were vendors with hot food. I had a women’s beginning ice climbing clinic in the afternoon thanks to one of Ron’s friends offering me the spot.

Ron’s Colts helmet leading the way out of the climb that I refused to do all of
Since I was in Ouray for the Festival there were fun activities going on every night. Friday and Saturday night had the silent and live auctions, respectively. There was a cover charge for food and all the beer you could drink (and climbers can drink a lot) with awesome gear available and all the proceeds going to the Park and local volunteer fire department. Reese and I both got the same awesome fuzzy earflap hat at the silent auction. The devious plan of the organizers worked well – having had my share of beer I was much more inclined to purchase my hat. I actually ended up over indulging a tad on Friday night and volunteering myself for driving on Saturday. It was quite enjoyable to watch other people get excited at the live auction – including reno buying an awesome painting. The auction on Saturday was followed by the “Dress to Impress” party and our group was replete with crazy hats and Colts paraphanalia. I ended up leaving the party early to hang out in the hot tub at the house before returning to collect everyone for the night.

Most of the gang and the obnoxiously bright reflective strips on my jumper
There was, of course, more climbing (and trips to the hot springs at Orvis). We hung out at the Five Fingers area Saturday morning. I ended up not climbing but if I ever finish the roll of film (not: 36 exposure film is not recommended), I will hopefully have some awesome photos from that morning. Sunday morning was another clinic followed by an adjournment to town to watch the Colts game (a sad loss to the Chargers). Then Monday morning rolled around and it was time to pack and the off to the airport. All in all an excellent trip – I learned to ice climb and met tons of nice people. Hopefully I’ll be back next year.